Milan, Feb 23: Miuccia Prada on Monday conjured up a ready-to-wear collection for autumn-winter 2005-06 that had a decidedly couture feel and reminded the Milan fashion crowd that basic black is always chic.
Like British film director Alfred Hitchcock, the Italian designer -- whose show capped Monday's presentations -- likes women who hide their passionate personalities beneath an icy veneer.
Her stone-faced models, sporting high heels and showing a bit of leg, cut a pure silhouette on the Milan catwalk that recalled the deceptively complicated couture designs of the legendary Spanish designer Cristobal Balenciaga.
Prada's seemingly simple black and brown coats and dresses were in fact wonders of construction with straight or puffed out backs, narrow sleeves and nipped waists. Each was given a bit of volume with careful tucks and pleats.
She reined in the jewelled brooches and other ornaments that had dominated her collections in recent seasons, instead bringing silks and wools alive with intricate passementerie designs that resembled the healing hands of Fatima.
Eyelets dotted her coats, and floral prints were veiled in black. Prada chose luxurious fabrics for next winter, with astrakhan leading the way.
For evening, a sprinkle of rubies brought a flesh-colored cocktail dress to life. A black number exuded grace with its impeccable cut and smooth lines.
At Bottega Veneta, German designer Tomas Maier also drew inspiration from elegant Hitchcock heroines of the 1950s, sending out models with perfect chignons in elegant skirts that fell just below the knee and tailored coats.
A trouser suit in Harris tweed straddled the male-female divide for daytime, while evening gowns in fluid silk jersey oozed feminine glamour. Prim cashmere sweaters worn with pleated skirts contrasted with embroidered velvet dresses.
Luxurious leather handbags, which still account for much of the label's turnover, helped to spice up the color palette of gray, black, taupe and brown.
For his Emporio line, Giorgio Armani never strays far from the Tinseltown spirit. He created a winter collection based in a "nostalgic past, when great movie stars were truly divine," but with a contemporary allure.
The mainly black wardrobe -- highlighted with touches of white, chartreuse and pearl gray -- included tiny fitted jackets paired with mini-skirts or skimpy shorts. A bit of retro fringe adorned minis and high-waisted dresses.
Towering two-tone or three-tone heels punched up a collection that was a bit less convincing than Armani's usual efforts.
Roberto Cavalli took the Milan fashion crowd to Russia with his Just Cavalli diffusion line, celebrating the "contemporary czarina" with bejewelled jeans, short Empire-waist dresses and chest-hugging tee-shirts with babushka prints.
For a bit of contrast, he offered court coats edged with mink, sure to keep the urban czarina warm on a cold winter's night.
Roberto Menichetti, back in Milan after several seasons of shows in New York, played up the vintage look with clothes that definitely looked like they had been worn before, like crinkled wool jackets.
The Italian designer, who will unveil his ready-to-wear collection for French label Celine next week in Paris, had more success with his masculine-cut trousers and ultra-soft knits.
Milan fashion week continues Tuesday with collections from Christian Lacroix for Emilio Pucci, Giorgio Armani, Alberta Ferretti and Christopher Bailey for Burberry Prorsum.
Bureau Report
