Chennai, June 14: Mahabalipuram, the once and forever rock-carved port and temple town of the Pallavas, lies 60 km south of Chennai.
The greatest of the Pallava kings, Mahendravarman and his son, better known as Mahamalla, made sure they left their mark here. The lighthouse, which still survives on top of a hill that dominates the coastline, burnt night and day, drawing argosies of imported goods that were ferried inland by means of a navigable canal.
Like all the better-known seaports, Mahabalipuram, offered plenty of entertainment even in the days of the Pallavas. The world’s largest open-air stone cut frieze, also known as Arjuna’s Penance, could easily be compared to an early Disneyland, complete with a stone slide for children, a waterfall, and animals imitating their human friends in a lewd and mocking manner. At the same time the Pallava kings also left behind magnificent caves filled with scenes of epic splendour, an architectural theme park known as the five Rathas and the fabulous enigma of the Shore Temple, with its profile etched against the magnificent panorama of wind and ocean, in continual worship of the Sun rising from the eastern seaboard every morning.
The trip to Mahabalipuram is not a visit to another tourist spot, but a chance to follow in the footsteps of the great heroes of the Hindu epics. Just l6 km south of Mahabalipuram, for instance, there is the famous temple of Thirukalikunram, a spot that marks the place where Jatayu the eagle king lost his golden wings while doing battle with Ravana.
Getting there
About 60 km from Chennai, you can get to Mahabalipuram by car, bus or bike.
What to do
Mahabalipuram was the second capital of the Pallavas; in 1995 it was named a World Heritage site. Along with the nine caves, the Shore Temple and the five rathas, visit the School of Sculpture, Tiger Cave (4 km) and the Crocodile Farm (15 km). Excursions: Kanchipuram (65 km), Vedanthangal Bird Sanctuary (53 km) and Thirukalikunram (14 km). A Dance Festival is held every winter.
Bureau Report
